Taking a Walk Downtown....

So despite the fact that I've been updating this blog so regularly throughout March (*pats self on back), the fact remains that most of Accra still has little to no internet access--including the entire compound and surrounding areas where I live/work. Instead, I've been demonstrating my utter devotion to blogging by coming downtown to the Vodafone Internet Center, which has a high-speed connection all the time. This is usually a quick taxi ride, less than $1. In traffic, however, it can take up to an HOUR. Ack! The other day I surveyed the bumper-to-bumper traffic and decided that it would be much more fun to just walk home. (This later horrified my roommate, who worries for my safety, but really, Ghana is a wonderfully safe place, and it was still light. Or at least sort of light.)

So off I went down High Street, walking through historic Jamestown past old prison forts and watching pickup football games as I went. I really think any city can be better appreciated from the 'a pied' approach, and this particular walk was awesome.

Obrunis don't usually cruise solo down High Street at dusk, however, and I attracted lots of funny stares and "Hi Obruuuniii!" calls as I went. Soon, I had a literal parade of children following me. All I needed was a flute to complete the Pied Piper look!

One little girl, Princess, took a particular liking and held my hand as we walked.

"Where are you walking?"
"To Korle Bu."
"Ah! All the way?"
"Yes. Look, traffic is so bad that I am passing the cars!"
"Ah yes. But......you will come visit my house on the way?"

And for once, I accepted a friendly street-side invitation and detoured off through a small encampment to Princess' home. Anyone living in Camden or Newark might be horrified by this story, but I've really begun to appreciate the genuine generosity of Ghanaians and didn't feel at all threatened by the situation. I was still quite the scene however, and had to use my best Twi skills to greet everyone we passed.

We reached Princess' home, just 2minutes off of High Street, and she introduced me to her parents. Her house was small shack with a curtained-door, and inside her parents sat watching a football game on TV. There was no light other than the television's blue flicker, and the entire home was about 4x8feet. Hairdressing materials littered the shelves, among random food parcels.

"Nice to meet you! Princess invited me over to say hello. You are a hairdresser?"
*Nods, shakes my hand
"Very nice. Princess, where do you all sleep?"
*Princess points to the floor
"All together here?"
*Nods
"That sounds nice. Well it was nice meeting you! I'm off to walk again!"

The entire interaction lasted only about 5 minutes, but I was overwhelmed by a few things:
1. Princess' parents weren't surprised at all that their daughter had brought an obruni to meet them, and greeted me as if I lived in the village as well.
2. The home was small. And at least 3 or 4 people would share the floor that night. The same floor that serves as a salon during the day.
3. They had no lights, but they did have a working television.

Gave me some perspective on life in Ghana. Made me realize that I should never have complained about the size of my dorm room in college. And that being able to watch football on your own television is a huge status symbol.

It seems that lately I am finally putting aside some of my American tendencies toward suspicion and defensiveness, and embracing a bit more of the Ghanaian friendliness. And it's wonderful! The rest of the walk to Korle-Bu was similarly enjoyable. The children couldn't walk the whole way, but our parade lasted at least a kilometer. Several pedestrians later helped me cross the Korle Lagoon and, upon nightfall, get a taxi the last several kilometers.

I'd just like to suggest that anyone living in a (relatively safe) African city take the time to occasionally walk. Really walk, over a long distance. It's one of the best ways to meet real locals, appreciate the scenery, and slow things down a bit. And it sure beats traffic.